Replacing missing and broken stones.
When stones have been broken or lost, it is important that the replacement/s matches the colour, size and cut of the other stones in the piece. It is therefore essential that a selection of stones is sourced in order to find the ideal match. Stones are sourced directly from dealers which will meet the correct specifications. Very few jewellers or goldsmiths keep a stock of precious stones on site as the large amount of variation in a stones colour, size and cut, mean that the chances of an exact match are small.

Broken or distorted shanks and shoulders.
A common problem with rings is that the shank will bend and warp over time, due to the shape of a finger and everyday wear and tear. Broken shanks and/or shoulders can also happen, usually when a ring is caught or crushed in something, or possibly received a bump or blow. To reshape a ring the shank will have to be heated and shaped using the appropriate tools.

Re-tipping
When a stone is set with claw settings, the claw itself is raised up above the stone, over time can wear away. If these claws become too worn it can result in the loss of the stone. This happens most regularly with rings due to them rubbing against sleeves, and the exposed nature of them being on your finger. A ring should be regularly checked by a goldsmith/jeweller to make sure that the claws have not become excessively worn. If they have, the claws will need to be re-tipped. Re-tipping is a tricky process with a high level of skill and accuracy required to do a good job. The method of re-tipping depends upon the level of ware. If the claw is just worn then the it can be built back up to its original level. This will then have to be done to all the other claws otherwise the repair will be noticeable. If a claw is broken the a replacement will have to be made. The old claw will be the filed down and the new claw added.

 

 

Tom Wightman at his work bench in the Hinckley workshop

 
 
All images copyrighted, ©Jan & Tom Wightman Goldsmiths 2008.